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Guardian Environmental Network

Destination: GREENLAND


For two weeks, Larry Lunt, a member of NRDC's Global Leadership Council, and Alain Hubert, a Belgian explorer and founder of the International Polar Foundation, trekked some 200 miles from the town of Qaanaaq across Greenland's Humbolt Glacier, the Northern Hemisphere's largest and fastest moving river of ice.

TRACK THE EXPEDITION ON THE MAP...

 

 

Qaanaaq, Greenland, marks the very edge of human civilization. It is mankind's northernmost outpost, a town of barely more than 600 that has carried on the traditions of the Inuit and their forebears for many thousands of years.  The Inuit who remain rely on stable sea ice to access the whales and seals they hunt for survival. The ice is thinner now. It melts faster than ever before. In recent years, the rest of the world has begun to take note as the people, places, and creatures that define the Arctic have fallen victim to the ills of a warming, industrialized world.

FOLLOW THE VOYAGE: Larry Lunt's Expedition Log

EXPERT OPINION: Arctic science and policy from Natural Resources Defense Council

SCIENCEPOLES: News and science from our partners at the International Polar Foundation

Greenland, Days 15 and 16: The End of an Adventure May 11, 2009: Nearly two weeks of isolation have come to an end with the arrival of the Spanish team (9 people and 52 dogs strong).  Now, our minds have started honing in on "home."  But first, we'll set out with four Inuit... read more > (4) Comments
Greenland, Day 14: Second Homes for Seals May 8, 2009: Happy to be back at sea level, we ski along the river bed all the way down to the coastal fjord.  Along the way we see many enormous erosion patterns, revealing just how much meltwater flows through every summer.  Once we... read more > (0) Comments
Greenland, Day 13: Wildlife May 7, 2009: Today starts with Alain giving me a refresher course on how to use the Magnum 44 in the (hopefully) unlikely event of a polar bear attack.  I remembered reading once that the best defense (if you don't have a gun) is to lie... read more > (2) Comments
Greenland, Day 12: Clearing the Ice May 6, 2009: Today we reached the end of icecap.  But before setting foot on solid ground, we trekked about 30 kilometers over the course of 11 hours, and were forced to cross several ice canyons.  Finally, we were rewarded with a... read more > (3) Comments
Greenland, Day 11: Call from the Prince May 5, 2009: This morning, while I was still tucked in my sleeping bag with the tent's ceiling dangling mere inches above my nose, I'm able to confirm that Alain is weird.  After a raucous night of wind flapping the walls of our... read more > (3) Comments
Greenland, Day 10: The Winds Return May 4, 2009: Today was supposed to be monotonous and uneventful.  It didn't turn out that way.  Shortly after we left camp, the clouds rolled in, and soon it started to snow.  Then, once again, the infamous and dreaded katabatic winds... read more > (5) Comments
Greenland, Day 9: Excited for Instant Soup May 1, 2009: It is official: today was monotonous. We trekked in a straight line for 25 kilometers on flat terrain -- for nine hours. The vista never changed: an ocean of white ice, and a very cold and very blue sky. So, let’s talk... read more > (2) Comments
Greenland, Day 8: We Reach the Summit April 30, 2009: Day 8: The wind was still blowing hard when we woke up this morning. It was hellish outside but sweet inside our tent, so we gave ourselves a bit of a treat and stayed in bed most of the day catching up on conversation. I... read more > (9) Comments
Greenland, Day 7: Panic in the Tent April 29, 2009: DAY 7: I am sound asleep when I feel the whole tent lift up and begin to slide around. At first I thought that I had overslept and that Alain was playing a little joke by unfolding the tent while I was still in it. But... read more > (1) Comments
Greenland, Day 6: The Infernal Climb April 28, 2009:            DAY 6: As usual, we start our morning ritual with a long, warm bubble bath followed by breakfast on the terrace with Belle Hill Farm eggs, Canadian bacon, and... read more > (4) Comments
Greenland, Day 5: A Lovely Day on the Ice April 28, 2009:            DAY 5: Another lucky day with the weather today: sunny and no wind, no major complaints. Total distance traveled: 12 kilometers. (I prefer to measure in... read more > (2) Comments
Greenland, Day 4: Polar Bears Pass Through Town April 27, 2009: DAY 4: This morning was our last in Qaanaaq. During breakfast at our guest house, our host fed us one last polar bear story. This year they have seen a record number of polar bears passing through the edge of town -- 10... read more > (0) Comments
Greenland, Day 3: The Dying Hunters April 25, 2009: DAY 3: The village of Qaanaaq is small and simple.  Here about 100 families live quietly on the edge of a fjord far above the arctic circle. Farther north, in fact, than any other permanent settlement in the world. There are... read more > (1) Comments
Greenland, Day 2: A Village Relocated April 24, 2009: DAY 2: Last night we ate a curious looking steak. After we finished, I was told that it was whale! That explains the fishy taste of it. This morning we flew to Qaanaaq--a four hour flight (with a stop to refuel) in a 12-... read more > (1) Comments
Greenland, Day 1: A Lesson in Luggage Lost April 23, 2009: DAY 1: If there was a direct flight from New York City to Ilulisat, Greenland, it would take only about three hours.  Unfortunately, the shortest route to the west coast of Greenland this time of the year is through... read more > (3) Comments
Destination: Greenland -- Why Go North? April 22, 2009: PREPARING FOR DEPARTURE: It's a beautiful sunny day and I am relaxing at home in Connecticut with my wife Vicky and my three lovely and very funny daughters, Alexandra, Sarah and Laela. Spring has arrived, the birds are... read more > (2) Comments